Short answer: Embroidery lace is lace made by stitching a design onto a base, rather than by weaving or knotting thread from scratch. The common types are schiffli (embroidered on cotton or net), guipure (the base is dissolved away so only the embroidery stays), eyelet (cut holes edged in stitches) and needle lace made entirely by hand.
Searches for "embroidery lace" in India rose 50% between 2021 and 2026 (Google Trends). Most people meet it as a border on a kurta, blouse sleeve or dupatta. Here is how to tell the kinds apart.
Five kinds of embroidery lace (tap each)
Schiffli lace
Embroidered by large schiffli machines onto cotton, voile or net. The base cloth stays. Very common on cotton kurtas and summer tops.
Guipure (chemical) lace
Embroidered on a backing that is then dissolved, leaving only the connected stitches. Thick, sculptural, no net behind it. Popular for blouse sleeves and necklines.
Eyelet (broderie anglaise)
Small holes cut or punched into cotton and edged with satin or buttonhole stitch. Fresh and summery, often white on white.
Embroidered net (tulle)
Thread, sequins or beads stitched onto fine net. Light and see-through, used for dupattas, overlays and bridal veils.
Needle lace (by hand)
Built stitch by stitch with only a needle, often as a pico or scallop edge on a dupatta. Slow, and the most personal kind.
Lace compared
| Type | Base | Feel | Best on |
|---|---|---|---|
| Schiffli | Cotton or net, stays | Soft, light | Kurtas, summer tops |
| Guipure | Dissolved | Firm, raised | Blouse sleeves, necklines |
| Eyelet | Cotton with holes | Crisp | Dresses, kids wear |
| Embroidered net | Net, stays | Sheer | Dupattas, overlays |
| Needle lace | None | Fine, delicate | Dupatta edges, heirlooms |
Watch: telling lace types apart
Video: University of Fashion.
Using lace on Indian wear
- Kurta: a schiffli or eyelet border at the hem and sleeves keeps a cotton kurta summery. See embroidery kurta.
- Blouse: guipure on the sleeve edge or back neck. Line sheer lace with skin-tone fabric.
- Dupatta: a needle lace or embroidered net edge. See embroidery dupatta.
Care
- Hand wash cold inside a mesh bag. Lace snags on zips and hooks.
- Do not wring. Press water out between towels.
- Iron from the back on a towel, low heat, especially on net.
More on looking after handwork: laundry instructions for embroidered clothing.
Lace or surface embroidery?
Lace is about open space and edges. Surface embroidery is about a picture on solid fabric. Our studio does the second kind: thread worked straight into cotton tees, shirts and sweatshirts.
Read next: embroidery fabric, what is embroidery.
Questions
Is embroidery lace handmade?
Most is machine made: schiffli and guipure come from large embroidery machines. Needle lace and some eyelet work are still done by hand.
What is the difference between lace and embroidery?
All embroidery lace is embroidery, but not all embroidery is lace. Lace has open spaces as part of the design. Surface embroidery sits on solid fabric.
Written by the Vee Threads studio team in Bulandshahr, where women artisans have hand stitched more than 5,000 orders.
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