Short answer: Embroidery work, or kadhai ka kaam, is any decoration stitched into cloth. In India it usually means one of six kinds: thread work, aari work, zardozi, mirror work, bead and sequin work, or computer embroidery. The first five are done by hand. The price depends mostly on hours, not materials.
"Embroidery work" scores 49 on Google Trends for India, one of the top five embroidery searches in the country, alongside "embroidery work blouse" and "hand work embroidery". We are a hand embroidery studio in Bulandshahr, Uttar Pradesh. This is how we explain the trade.
Six kinds of embroidery work (tap each)
1. Thread work (resham ka kaam)
Cotton or silk thread with a needle: satin, stem, chain, French knots. Covers everything from chikankari to modern florals on tees. What our studio does.
2. Aari work
Chain stitch made with a hook on a big frame, often with beads and zari. Fast and very even. Full guide: aari embroidery.
3. Zardozi
Metal wire, coiled dabka and sitara stitched in raised patterns. Heavy, gold or silver, made for weddings.
4. Mirror work (shisha)
Small mirrors held by a ring of stitches. No glue in real shisha. See mirror work.
5. Bead and sequin work
Beads, cut dana and sequins stitched one by one. Catches light, adds weight.
6. Computer embroidery
Machine work from a digital file. Fast, identical, cheaper per piece. Most shop-bought "embroidery work" kurtas and blouses are this.
Hand work vs machine work
| Check | Hand work | Machine work |
|---|---|---|
| Back of the cloth | Knots and short thread tails | White bobbin thread, stiff backing |
| Repeated motifs | Slightly different | Identical |
| Feel | Soft, raised | Flat and firm |
| Time | Hours to days | Minutes (800 to 1,200 stitches a minute) |
More checks: hand vs machine embroidery.
What sets the price of embroidery work
- Hours. By far the biggest factor. Our parakeet tee is about 24 hours of stitching.
- Fill vs outline. A filled shape can take five times longer than the same shape outlined.
- Number of colours. Every change slows the work.
- Materials. Zari and real silk cost more than cotton floss, but still less than the labour.
Rupee by rupee: where every rupee of a hand embroidered tee goes.
Watch: 13 stitches behind most embroidery work
Video: Cutesy Crafts, over 1.1 million views.
How embroidery work is made in our studio
- Design drawn on paper and approved.
- Transferred onto the garment.
- Hooped, colours matched to the design.
- Stitched by one artisan from start to finish.
- Checked front and back, loose ends secured.
- Pressed from the back and packed.
The full nine-step process: how a hand embroidered t-shirt is made.
Read next: what is embroidery, embroidery designs, Indian embroidery styles.
Questions
What is embroidery work called in Hindi?
Kadhai or kadhai ka kaam. Hand embroidery is often called hand work, and silk thread work is resham ka kaam.
Is hand embroidery work durable?
Yes, when washed cold and inside out. The thread goes through the fabric, so it cannot peel. See will hand embroidery peel or fade.
Written by the Vee Threads studio team in Bulandshahr, where women artisans have hand stitched more than 5,000 orders.
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