Zardozi Embroidery: History, Materials and How to Tell Hand Work from Machine

Zardozi is metal-thread embroidery: gold and silver wire, coiled springs, flattened strip and sequins, couched onto silk or velvet. The name joins the Persian zar (gold) and dozi (embroidery). It is the most expensive hand embroidery made in India today, and also one of the most imitated.

A short history

According to India's Office of the Development Commissioner (Handicrafts), zardozi is a Persian craft that was introduced to India in the 12th century and flourished under the Mughals, when it became a mark of royal dress.

The Victoria and Albert Museum notes that in the 18th and 19th centuries it was a favourite for palace furnishings and animal trappings, not just clothing. Today the main centres are Lucknow, Bareilly, Agra, Delhi, Bhopal and Hyderabad. Lucknow Zardozi carries Geographical Indication status.

The materials, named

Zardozi workers name each wire by its shape. These are the ones you will hear most often:

Material names drawn from the Development Commissioner (Handicrafts) pages on Zari Zardozi and Lucknow Zardozi.

Real gold, then and now

Traditionally the wire was pure gold and silver. Over time, cheaper materials such as copper, lurex and polyester came in, and from the mid-20th century electroplating and lacquered finishes were used to stop tarnishing. Almost all zardozi sold today uses gilt or coated copper. That is not a fake; it is how the craft is made now. Only pieces sold as "real zari" or "pure zari" should be expected to contain precious metal.

How it is worked

The base fabric is stretched tight on a large wooden frame, the karchob or adda. Several artisans often sit around one frame. Each wire piece is laid on the surface and couched down with a fine needle and thread, or the hollow coils are threaded on and stitched like beads. Padding of cotton or card under the work gives the raised, sculpted look of bridal zardozi.

Telling hand zardozi from machine

• Raised texture. Hand work has real depth from padding and coils. Machine "zari" lies flat.
• Separate pieces. Look closely: hand zardozi is made of distinct cut coils and sequins. Machine work is one continuous thread.
• The reverse. Hand work shows short couching stitches. Machine work shows a dense bobbin layer.
• Weight. Hand zardozi is noticeably heavy.

Care

Dry clean only. Store flat, wrapped in muslin, away from damp, which tarnishes metal. Never fold sharply across the embroidery.

For how zardozi relates to aari and adda work, see our guide to the nine great hand embroidery traditions of India and aari embroidery.

Sources

• Office of the Development Commissioner (Handicrafts), Government of India: Zari Zardozi; Lucknow Zardozi
• Victoria and Albert Museum, Indian embroidery